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Design 2182 C2 Azahara
The owner of this beautiful boat was kind enough to send us these fine images. Azahara started her life as Mandrake, design #2182. She was constructed of aluminum by Walter Huisman of Holland and was designed and built for Admirals Cup competition. The boat was then sold to the Duke of Arion of Spain and a new "C2" job number assigned when we were asked to assist with some rating changes and rigging modifications.
The images were take in the Oslofjord just outside of Oslo, Norway. It looks like a beautiful place to sail.
Comparing the images to the plans we can see a cockpit coaming and dodger have been added for cruising comfort. Shes a great looking boat. Congratulations on her restoration. Thanks very much for sharing these images with us.
Here are the plans.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 48-2"
LWL 36-6"
Beam 12-10"
Draft 7-6"
Displacement 30,500 lbs
Ballast 16,100 lbs
Sail Area 1,018 sq ft
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Why the Yawl Rig for the Goat Island Skiff or for any boat
I am asked this a lot and wanted to put something together to answer this and other questions. I added the mizzen to the GIS because I wanted a boat for myself that would be easier to singlehand on longer excursions and for use in sail-and-oar events such as the Small Reach Regatta, the Texas 200, and other RAID events like the Shipyard School Raid and Sail Caledonia. Many, many of the boats you see in these events have a mizzen.
For my own use of the GIS, a mizzen is needed for a variety of reasons:
1) to hold the boat into the wind while the sail is raised, lowered, or reefed while singlehanding or sailing with my kids.
2) to hold the boat into the wind while rig is unstepped and stowed and oars are rigged for rowing
3) to be able to hold the boat to windward or to heave-to while underway for taking short breaks to move people, re-stow gear, or go to the bathroom with out getting blown off course.
4) to be able to back off docks and beaches and control steering in tight spaces
5) to be able to tune the weather helm felt by the helmsman by trimming the mizzen
Other FAQs
Is the designer aware of your changes to the Goat Island Skiff?
Yes, I have a great working relationship with Michael Storer whom I consider a friend. He and I correspond often and he has OK-ed the addition of the mizzen and trusts that I will design and build the new rig so that it fits in with the concept of the GIS. For example, all pains will be taken so that this addition adds very little weight to the boat. The mizzen mast will be a lightweight, birdsmouth mast.
Is the lug sail the same and is it stepped in the same place or how has the lugs position been adjusted for the new mizzen?
I have designed new sail rigs for boats before, for dories actually. After drawing the new rig, finding the new center of effort (CE) of the added sail area, and moving things around, the new CE and old CE are in the same place such that the centerboard does not need to be changed. In the GIS, the lug is the same standard sail (105 SF) and it will step in a secondary partner/step forward of bulkhead #1. It turned out that the lug needs to be moved forward only 9" keeping things tied into the bulkheads for structural integrity and simplicity. The original mast step is retained so the boat can be sailed with or without the mizzen. The GIS Yawl is is still the usual standard GIS, but with an added mizzen. You can take the boat out with more flexibility in rig choice.
Has one been built and how well does it work?
I expect to have a GIS Yawl on the water this summer, my personal boat, but orders for sail rigs and boat kits may prevent that from happening. However, one kit is going to a customer who will be doing the yawl and plans to be sailing this summer in the Texas 200. I have no doubt that the boat will go as well as the standard, upwind and downwind, but with the added benefits of the mizzen for RAIDs and sail0and-oar type of use. If the mizzen is not needed, leave it ashore and use the Goat as the standard lug-only arrangement.
You can learn more about How to Use the Yawl Rig in my blog post.
or the Goat Island Skiff page on my website.
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Swell Day Surfing!
A hail storm hammers down, winds gust up and its bloody freezing. That was just in my garden getting the kayak out. I arrive at Aberthaw just after Taran with a grin on my face as a view of carnage reveals itself. Noel turns up with the same look on his face. We head for Barry old harbour instead.
We try to persuade Noel out to the edge of the bay but I think he was just about at the edge of his comfort zone. I know the feeling.
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Fairing It Begins
Fairing has been labeled as the bugaboo of wooden boat building. Its only natural to feel that way about this necessary task. You spend months, even years putting the hull structure together, only to take a sander or planer to it and shave part of it off. Theres the fear in the back of your mind that youre going to take off too much and ruin all that work.
But theres another way to look at it. After you have spent so much time getting the hull structure ready, it is still only a collection of parts until the skin is on. Only at that point could you actually put it in the water. Of course theres more to it than that, but the fact is, if you dont put the skin on, then you cant proceed any further and youve essentially wasted all that effort and money.
So fairing is a necessary step. What is fairing? For those readers that might not be familiar with the term, it is shaving down all the corners and edges that are preventing the skin from lying flat on the structure. The structure is a collection of parts made from square, rectangular, and angular pieces of wood. There are no curves unless they are cut into the wood. It is essentially impossible to construct the hull without some material sticking out in various places. This excess material needs to be removed.
Heres an illustration of what I mean. The frames in this photo (coming in from the right) curve down to the chine (the long part going away from the viewer). The chine is a rectangular piece of material laid into notches cut into the frames. In order for the skin to lie flat on the bottom of the boat (the top edge in this photo), that edge of the chine sticking up must be removed and blended into the curvatures of the frames.
But theres another way to look at it. After you have spent so much time getting the hull structure ready, it is still only a collection of parts until the skin is on. Only at that point could you actually put it in the water. Of course theres more to it than that, but the fact is, if you dont put the skin on, then you cant proceed any further and youve essentially wasted all that effort and money.
So fairing is a necessary step. What is fairing? For those readers that might not be familiar with the term, it is shaving down all the corners and edges that are preventing the skin from lying flat on the structure. The structure is a collection of parts made from square, rectangular, and angular pieces of wood. There are no curves unless they are cut into the wood. It is essentially impossible to construct the hull without some material sticking out in various places. This excess material needs to be removed.
Heres an illustration of what I mean. The frames in this photo (coming in from the right) curve down to the chine (the long part going away from the viewer). The chine is a rectangular piece of material laid into notches cut into the frames. In order for the skin to lie flat on the bottom of the boat (the top edge in this photo), that edge of the chine sticking up must be removed and blended into the curvatures of the frames.
Of course it sounds simple in theory, but in practice, each frame curves down at a different angle, which means that the chines edge that is flattened out, will gradually increase in angle as you move towards the front of the boat. The edge will need to follow a gradual change in angle over its entire length. It gets even more dramatic at the bow. I havent actually figured out how to do that yet, so I will refrain from discussing that part of fairing until I do understand it better.
At the back end of the boat, on the sides, it is relatively flat and very little fairing is required. On the top edge of the sides, there is another rectangular piece of wood that needs to be blend into the curves of the frames (the sheer edge near the floor).
To start out this process, I needed a confidence booster, something to warm up on.This is the top edge of the chine as seen in the previous photo. But only on the aft end of the boat, because the front end requires a different technique.
You start by filing away material directly in line with the frames, blending it into the curve of the frame. The next photo shows this.
When youve done the frames in the flat aft area of the boat (frames 3, 2, 1, and the transom on my boat), it looks like the next photo. You can see how the chine has been blended into the frames at each frame point.
Next, you connect the blended areas with a line along the length of the chine. You can see that in the previous photo. This line represents the future edge of the bottom surface. I wasnt going to sand this down all the way just yet. But I did want to sand it back some so that when I started fitting the test piece of plywood on the sides, this edge would not interfere with the fitting. So I sanded it back at a shallow angle down to the line I drew. You can see that in the next photo.
The edge looks a bit wavy, but thats more of a trick of the camera than anything else. The sanded area is fairly close to the line I drew. If you look at the closest frame in the previous photo you can see the triangular cross section of the remaining part of the upper edge that will eventually be removed.
There are of course different ways of doing this, and the technique I am using is what I feel comfortable with. But my intention is to start on the sides first and go back to the bottom (the top in this photo) later. You can see that the chine already blends into the frames on the sides fairly well. In fact, it only required a small amount of sanding to blend in.
At the transom, the frame on the side is a bit low compared to the chine. I filled this in with thickened epoxy and then sanded it smooth and blended the entire edge with the chine.
The way that the side is faired (only at the aft end of the boat for now) is to use a piece of plywood the same thickness as the skin and lay it up against the frames to see how it matches up, Sanding is used to even out the edge. What you are after is a nice fit between the structure and the plywood. This is illustrated in the following two photos.
Eventually, the real skin will be attached to the chine and sheer (and the transom frame only) with epoxy and screws. For reasons Ill go into at a later date, you do not screw the skin to the frames, however it is okay to glue them. In the last photo, you can see that the fit between the transom frame and the test plywood is pretty good. What you cannot see in the photo, but which I had to take care of, was that the angle of the transom frame edge was off a bit and the forward side had a gap in a few places. Some touching up with the sander, and several tests with the plywood, were required before I was satisfied with the fit.
Ive repeated this process at each frame up to frame 3, testing and light sanding until the plywood lays nice and flat along the edge. I also will need to look at the top edge of the sheer and the lower edge of the chine between the frames. I am not sure yet how I am going to do this. I can either test using a wider piece of plywood or get it close at the frames and then blend in between them in long continuous strokes with the sander. As I mentioned, I am not yet sure how I am going to do that part.
At any rate, that is the state of my fairing. One other part of the build will need to be accomplished before I can do too much more fairing (at least at the front of the boat). Because of the angle of the hull curvature and the bow is quite sharp, a considerable amount of material is going to be removed from the sheers near the floor. In fact it will go from a rectangular cross section to a triangular cross action before its all over with.
In order to maintain the strength of the sheer in these areas, it is necessary to laminate another piece of lumber on the inside of the sheer between frames 4 and 5, 5 and 6, and 6 and the breasthook. So I will be doing that over the next several days in addition to repeating the fairing Ive done already on the other side of the boat.
After that then I am going to start trying to figure out how to fair the front of the boat. The bottom of the boat will be faired last. Than includes fairing the keel with the frames in a similar manner to the fairing of the chines. And there is also the stem forward edge that will need fairing so that the edge of the skins has somewhere to attach to. All of that will be covered at a future date.
So until next time, take care.
Even More About Roon II Design 28
Weve posted two articles about this beautiful boat. (Click here and here to access the articles). A blog reader sent us this image of Roon II at her launch at the Kretzer Boat Works of City Island, New York. The year was 1934. Great image and thanks very much for sending it.
35 Double Ender Design 1519
This pretty little sloop named Saraband is a rare canoe stern design. There are only a handful in the archives. She was built by the Norman H. Hodgdon, Jr. yard of Boothbay (predecessor to the current Hodgdon Yachts) and launched in 1960.
Note the nice little aft cabin and associated aft deckhouse in the General Arrangement plan shown below. This gave a nice sense of safety and security in the cockpit and provided a bit of privacy when cruising in a 35 boat.
Her stem, keel, deadwood and framing is of white oak. Her single planking is of mahogany.
Principal Dimensions
LOA 35-0"
LWL 29-0"
Beam 8-6"
Draft 5-3"
Displacement 14,350 lbs
LOA 35-0"
LWL 29-0"
Beam 8-6"
Draft 5-3"
Displacement 14,350 lbs
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Boat Shelter/shop: I Require A Shop To Construct My Boat? Go Figure!
Do you truly require a shop in which to build your boat? Its undoubtedly preferred and may only make life less difficult for you personally. Do not be discouraged at this thought, although. Your "shop" will not by any means have to be fancy or glamorous, despite the fact that if youd like it to be, knock your self out!
A straightforward shelter to protect your boat as you create it from undesirable climate situations and from thieves stealing your tools is all you truly need.
Once again, you do not desire to break the bank and you are going to know greatest as to just how much you are able to spending budget for your shop. Of course, in case you can create an appropriate shelter it is going to undoubtedly make your create a far more pleasant knowledge.
Effectively, what does acceptable imply within this instance? It doesnt imply a huge structure, it does not mean fancy or glamorous; it does, nevertheless, imply it ought to be an efficient and efficient workplace.
Considerably like you may need a strategy to build your boat, you are going to also want a strategy to construct your shop. Draw your floor plan depending on the size of boat you are going to be developing making certain you will have adequate area to store all of your equipment and components as well as to maneuver comfortably.
This physical exercise will add for your workload, nevertheless it will serve as very advantageous when you begin constructing your boat. Your shop plans are all set! Where to create it although?
Youll want to pick a internet site keeping several items in mind: 1. weather situations (wind exposure), two. accessibility to electricity, three. distance from your property, and so on... Heres a little hint. Industrial places have a tendency to be a superb option.
All that in thoughts, it is very best to pick a building site nested among trees or amongst other buildings. Why? Nicely, the last point you desire is actually a wind storm coming via and taking your shop with it!
If there is totally no way to uncover a spot like this and you happen to be stuck in an open location, somewhat secret is always to have huge open holes inside the front and back of the structure so if a wind storm does creep up, it will pass correct by way of as an alternative to wreaking havoc in your shop.
A few of the tools you will be making use of will demand a energy source, so it is greatest when you have a certified electrician or your nearby power firm come and setup a short-term energy station. This isnt one thing you want to do yourself, for clear causes!
All my very best,
Mark R. Khalil
Do you truly require a shop in which to build your boat? Its undoubtedly preferred and may only make life less difficult for you personally. Do not be discouraged at this thought, although. Your "shop" will not by any means have to be fancy or glamorous, despite the fact that if youd like it to be, knock your self out!
A straightforward shelter to protect your boat as you create it from undesirable climate situations and from thieves stealing your tools is all you truly need.
Once again, you do not desire to break the bank and you are going to know greatest as to just how much you are able to spending budget for your shop. Of course, in case you can create an appropriate shelter it is going to undoubtedly make your create a far more pleasant knowledge.
Effectively, what does acceptable imply within this instance? It doesnt imply a huge structure, it does not mean fancy or glamorous; it does, nevertheless, imply it ought to be an efficient and efficient workplace.
Considerably like you may need a strategy to build your boat, you are going to also want a strategy to construct your shop. Draw your floor plan depending on the size of boat you are going to be developing making certain you will have adequate area to store all of your equipment and components as well as to maneuver comfortably.
This physical exercise will add for your workload, nevertheless it will serve as very advantageous when you begin constructing your boat. Your shop plans are all set! Where to create it although?
Youll want to pick a internet site keeping several items in mind: 1. weather situations (wind exposure), two. accessibility to electricity, three. distance from your property, and so on... Heres a little hint. Industrial places have a tendency to be a superb option.
All that in thoughts, it is very best to pick a building site nested among trees or amongst other buildings. Why? Nicely, the last point you desire is actually a wind storm coming via and taking your shop with it!
If there is totally no way to uncover a spot like this and you happen to be stuck in an open location, somewhat secret is always to have huge open holes inside the front and back of the structure so if a wind storm does creep up, it will pass correct by way of as an alternative to wreaking havoc in your shop.
A few of the tools you will be making use of will demand a energy source, so it is greatest when you have a certified electrician or your nearby power firm come and setup a short-term energy station. This isnt one thing you want to do yourself, for clear causes!
All my very best,
Mark R. Khalil
Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
Family owned and operated, Xpress Boats has been building quality aluminum boats in Arkansas since 1966. Starting out in a little schoolhouse in Friendship, Arkansas, Xpress Boats built the first all welded all aluminum boat. Xpress Boats discovered an untapped market in the boating industry and began to make a name for itself.
It was in the late 80s when Xpress Boats transformed the aluminum boat with the creation of the Hyper-Lift® Hull. The first of its kind, this padded hull raised the bar on the performance, durability and style of the aluminum boat. This was truly a defining moment for Xpress Boats. Now boaters had the durability and strength of aluminum with the performance and style that had only been found on a fiberglass boat.
Through the years Xpress experienced tremendous growth, and in 2000 moved its headquarters to Hot Springs, Arkansas. Today, Xpress offers more choices and more value with the expanded Hyper-Lift® Series and the price friendly Super Value Series, Silver Series and Xplorer Series.
Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
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Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
Xpress Boats For Sale
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